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RRC Coolant Temps
'97 Rover P38 3" Coil Spring Conversion, Front Lockrite, Rear TC
'88 Classic Stock
I replaced the water temperature switch (turns on condenser fans when coolant temp reaches a certain threshold, which I can't remember) hoping that would solve the problem but it didn't. FYI, I had also recently replaced both condenser fans so I knew those weren't the issue.
After consulting with Kevin and Joe at ROV-N-TECHS, we concluded that the cause was most likely a partially clogged radiator since the viscous fan was operating properly and I had recently replaced the belt and tensioner. I was gonna pull it and have it rodded but decided to replace it with a new one.
During the swap, I also replaced the thermostat and obviously added new coolant. Problem SOLVED.
Things to keep in mind if your temp is running high in the summer:
1. Ensure both condenser fans are working. Switch on the A/C and turn the blower control to 2 or 3. Walk to the front of the car, you should hear the fans blowing.
2. Water temperature switch may be faulty, thus not kicking on condenser fan when necessary. If your car is hot and you turn it off, you should hear the fans continue to run for a few minutes. If you hear this, you know your switch is still good.
3. Sitting at a stop light in summer with A/C running will over heat a faulty system, particularly a clogged radiator, in a hurry due to high heat of the condenser, its close proximity to radiator and lack of airflow over both.
4. Driving up a steep hill with the A/C on will raise the temp in a hurry too. I usually cut my A/C off when i head up the hill to Flagstaff.
5. Partially clogged radiators, locked viscous fans, failed water temperature switches and failed condenser fans are some of the most common reasons for overheating RRCs.
6. Check the the belt tension and the tensioner. A failing water pump could also be the culprit but I don't know how to check that.
I have a new genuine radiator and I use Sierra brand coolant (the green pet/eco friendly stuff that's hard to find). I NEVER have any cooling issues under any circumstances. I can idle all day in 120 degrees with the AC on or I can pull a trailer to Flagstaff with the AC on and it never gets hot.
That, my friends, is how you get 226,000+ miles on a Range Rover Classic engine and it's still going strong.
I have a similar issue with my 01 Disco 2 about a week after I bought it checked all the fluids full ok everything running good only 111 on the OD, thought lets take this thing to Payson ran perfect till I got to mazatzal casino all of a sudden bam temp starts rising thought crap hauled a** to my cousins who happens to be a master mechanic five minutes from there when I got there coolant shooting out of the reservoir cap and no where else with both fans running we let it cool and found no apparent leaks except that the reservoir cap was missing an o ring ok cool filled it back up with fluid took it on a 2 hr off road trip no problems what so ever drove it back to phoenix and back and fourth to work for another month no problems. Took it to Payson again to visit my cousin this time no a/c on after 4 peaks turn off and as soon as I get to casino bam temp rising thought wtf. So this time put new hoses, coolant, cap, radiator, thermostat, and overflow tank been four months now no issues. I have not taking it to Payson yet lol. I'm scared ....lol but never the less I love it coolest car I ever owned! On a closing note if it happens again cracked block or minor blown head gasket damn Bosch engines! P.S. sorry for the long tex...
Belts routed correctly?
01' E-350 7.3L 4x4 - Sportsmobile pop-up
94' DI - ROKROVR
[bt]91' RRC SWB[/b]
Shaun - KF7KOY