If you have called me for advice or visited to buy a part, chances are, you might have heard me mention some of these items, especially if you were a new RRC owner or your RRC was new to you. So I made this web page and have been continually adding to and modifying it.

Batteries
  • X2Power Group 34 SLI34AGMDP

    I had been running a Sears DieHard Platinum AGM battery since summer of 2015. That battery finally died in October 2019. Thank you, Sears; it was a great battery for a great price. I drained it many times and it always charged back up. I replaced it with an X2Power Group 34 battery from Batteries + Bulbs which other than the color it looks almost identical to the Sears DieHard Platinum. X2Power is a rebadged Northstar. Compare them and you will see they are the same battery. Anything else isn't as good. Avoid Optimas of any color, they haven't been the same quality since they stopped being made in the USA. For my RRC and the places I drive it, I simply do not want the hassles of a lesser battery. The X2Power is worth every penny. I am now on my second X2Power battery, the first one lasted 5 years and 2 months.
Blower Motor Resistor
  • Air Conditioner and Heater Blower Motor Resistor from Atlantic British

    I'm not sure if Atlantic British makes these or sources them from somewhere else, but if you have a 1990-1994 RRC, chances are your air conditioner and blower motor resistor pack (PRC8010) is dead or dying. Have less than 3 fan speeds? You need this. It's pain in the ass to replace. I replaced mine in the summer of 2015. And did so without removing the cowl panel where it lives beneath or removing the dashboard. Remove the RH cowl vent and the RH middle defroster vent of the dash and you can access the part and electric connection respectively. Worth every penny. Your fans will work like they are supposed to after replacement. These disappeared from Atlantic British for quite a while. I would definitely keep one on had if you have never replaced your resistor pack. I may even add another now that I know they're available again.
Brake Pads
  • Ferodo

    I have been using Ferodo brake pads since the first time I replaced the brake pads in my 1989 RRC. After Tata acquired Land Rover I tried a pair of genuine pads now made in India. Absolute crap. They looked correct and they fit fine. However, they would squeak when the brakes were not being applied. Apply the brakes and they would stop squeaking until your took your foot off the brake pedal and then they would start squeaking again. After 6,000 miles of that I bought replacement Ferodo pads, pulled out the genuine Land Rover pads and threw them right in the trash. I popped the Ferodo pads in and haven't heard a noise from the brakes since. Keep in mind, if your RRC behaves like mine, you will wear out the rear pads before the front pads. Usually on at least a 2:1 ratio.
Brake Rotors
  • Genuine Land Rover

    They last. And with 0.9 and 2.0mm usable wear, it matters which ones you buy. While it is not recommended to replace pads without replacing rotors, I can usually get four sets of brake pads to one set of solid rotors. I will let you know about the vented once I have some data on them.

    Genuine Solid Rotor LR017951 new thickness 13.9mm, discard thickness = 13.0mm
    Genuine Vented Rotor LR017952 new thickness = 24.0mm, discard thickness = 22.0mm
Parking Brake
  • Use it every time you park your Range Rover!

    Everyone, regardless of vehicle, should ALWAYS use the parking brake. Every time. Even when you are not a hill. Never rely on the parking pawl in the transmission to hold the weight of the vehicle by itself. The amount of metal that is actually holding your vehicle's 4000+ pounds is very small and maybe 2-3 millimeters of metal is all that is keeping your vehicle from rolling away.

    The photo above shows the parking pawl from a ZF 4HP22 transmission which is in all 1987-1995 Range Rovers.

    The best way to park your vehicle is to come to a complete stop using the vehicle brakes. While the vehicle brakes are still being applied, apply the parking brake. Then put the transmission in park. If you were to put the vehicle in park first, that can still leave the weight of the vehicle resting entirely on the parking pawl.
Coolant
  • Sierra Antifreeze/Coolant

    I have used Sierra Antifreeze/Coolant since the latter half of 2003 in my 1989 and have been using it exclusively in my 1991 Hunter even while it was serviced by Bill Rhoades in Santa Fe, New Mexico prior to my ownership. It is the safer pet friendly coolant. But not only that, it's the safest one for aluminum engine blocks. You have probably heard about the problems with the incorrect antifreeze eating away at aluminum engine blocks. This one is the safest for our engines. I have the fewest cooling system related issues of anyone I know. I keep a 5L Wavian jerry can of it in my RRC at all times, check the level regularly and measure the ratio to make sure I keep the distilled water to coolant ratio correct for the current season. Available on Amazon.
Coolant Reservoir
  • AlliSport Land Rover 200 / 300 TDI / V8 aluminum header tank

    Ok, do not skimp here! If you have the original black plastic or the nearly clear plastic coolant reservoirs replace them as soon as possible with the AlliSport aluminum tank with or without the sight glass. The black plastic ones are prone to cracking as the black plastic is not the best material for the job. The nearly clear ones are absolute aftermarket crap and will burst or crack within months of installing if not during installation. The clear plastic is even a worse material than the black plastic and not up to the task at all. If you have the opaque yellowish-white reservoir, that is the second best behind the AlliSport and the one I recommended until I discovered the AlliSport. My 1991 Range Rover Hunter currently has the opaque yellowish-white installed in it. I bought it 2 years before the AlliSport was available. I will be installing the AlliSport unit sometime in the future when a coolant flush is necessary.

    If you have a 1987-1989 model enjoy your factory brass coolant reservoir, no need to upgrade those, Land Rover got it right the first time and if they do start to leak they can be repaired.
Dome Lamp Bulbs
  • Alla 41mm 400 lumen white LED
  • Alla 41mm 400 lumen red LED

    I bought my original 42mm Festoon Style LED panels with 24 LEDs on them quite awhile ago. I love LEDs over the typical incandescent bulbs for three reasons. First, the LED bulbs do not get hot and turn the dome lenses brown or make them smell funny. Second, the LEDs are drastically brighter. Third, they do not draw as many amps so if you leave a door open all night you aren't going to drain the battery. I bought first LED panels on eBay. Do not buy the ones that have the festoon part separate from the panel. They will not fit correctly. Only buy the ones with pointy metal ends built in. If they do not work when you install them, flip them around. LEDs are polarity sensitive. I just replaced the original LED panel with new units from Alla. Wow, what a difference. Love the red. And the white is borderline too bright for me. Will take some getting used to but do not plan on switching back. If you have a 1987 or 1988 Range Rover then I am told you will need 36mm festoon style bulbs instead of 42mm and you can probably get away with these 39mm from Alla. Measure before you order to be safe.
Dome Lamp Lens
  • Dome Light Lens Replacements

    Replace your dome lamp lenses when you put in the new LED bulbs. The LEDs are not going to look like they are an improvement if they are trying to shine through a brown heat baked lens.
Driveshafts
  • Tom Woods Custom Double Cardan Drive Shafts

    Simply the best available and not the highest priced out there. A little over $400 per driveshaft. Fast, quality parts. If you have more than a 2" lift on your RRC, you will need these to eliminate drive line vibration. I have two sets. One always freshly lubed or rebuilt ready to install.
Front Turn Signals
  • OE Retrofit of PRC4338 (LH), PRC4337 (RH) and the respective lenses AEU1609 (LH), AEU1610 (RH)

    So this is where you will hear me say, "They sure don't make 'em like they used to!" And it's true, I consider the new plastic turn signals that superseded the part numbers above to be absolute crap and there are a number of reasons why I feel that way. In fact, I have created an entire web page as to why I recommend that you retrofit your existing plastic front turn signals to the older metal style as I have done along with some advice if you decide not to.

    However, as of early 2019 there are a number of aftermarket replacements being sold on eBay and other sources for cheap. I do not know anything about them, but the price is sure attractive compared to genuine Land Rover replacements or if you aren't able to find older metal units. Follow my advice when mounting replacements to extend their life.
Gasoline
  • Chevron Supreme 91 Octane with Techron

    I recommend only Chevron Supreme 91 octane with Techron gasoline, a Top-Tier fuel, in your RRC. First off, your Range Rover does in fact require 91 octane fuel. So why Chevron Supreme 91 octane with Techron? Here's why. In my college days I was a courier during the day and delivered pizza at night. I was driving a 1993 Isuzu SpaceCab pickup truck that I bought new. Initially, I used any gas. Mostly whatever was cheapest and convenient. And I did so from the day I bought it up until the warranty expired at 60,000 miles. That was in 13 months. The manual recommended the valves be lapped every 15,000 miles. And as I approached 15,000 I could begin to hear the valves make noise in the engine. I repeated the process at 30,000 miles, 45,0000 miles and again at 60,000 miles. Each time I could hear the valves getting louder and louder as the next 15,000 mile interval approached. After the fourth valve job at 60,000 miles I switched over to Chevron Supreme 91 octane with Techron gasoline exclusively. As I approached 75,000 miles, no valve noise. Not interested in spending the money on a valve job again I skipped it and thought I would wait until I heard the valves like before, regardless of the mileage. At 90,000 miles, again, no valve noise. At 105,000 miles no valve noise. At 120,000 miles still no valve noise. It had been 60,000 miles without doing the valves now. I figured, even without any noise, I better have it checked and done.

    The mechanic that had been doing the valves for me came out to talk with me after inspecting the vehicle. He asked me when the last time I had the valves done. He knew I was pretty religious about mileage increments and doing all the recommended maintenance on time. He asked me if I had forgotten if I had just had the valves done. I said no, I haven't had them done since he did them at 60,000 miles. He told me the values looked like he had done them yesterday. He asked me what I was doing differently. I said nothing, aside from only using only Chevron Supreme 91 octane gasoline for the last 60,000 miles.

    I have been using Chevron Supreme gasoline ever since.

    Chevron is also the gasoline that the big three domestic automakers use to get their fuel economy ratings posted on new vehicle window stickers. Chevron gas is not sold in Michigan. Therefore, they have to truck it in specific just for use in the EPA mileage testing. Which gas are you going to use?

    Find your nearest Chevron station here.

    What do I use when Chevron isn't available? Texaco with Techron! Which is exactly the same, just a different label. Up until October of 2018 when I moved to Wisconsin where neither were available I used Shell V-Power NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline. However, I believe the ethanol content was substantially higher than listed on the pump as my mileage had been lower than normal per tank and I suspect it caused my fuel injector O-rings to all fail simultaneously creating a very hazardous situation. Thus, I stopped using Shell gasoline immediately. I switched to KwikTrip Premium Unleaded 91 octane gas which did not contain ethanol. And with their mix of detergent additives, KwikTrip Premium was a Top Tier fuel until 2022. Mileage improved and I did not experience any more fuel related issues.

    Alert! In 2022 KwikTrip/KwikStar top-tier certification stickers were being removed from their pumps! Their website which used to heavily promote their gasoline and additives/detergents make no mention of them any more. And the fuel warranty they previously offered has also been removed.

    Gas brands to avoid: 7-Eleven, Alon, Amoco, BP, Casey's, Circle K, Kum & Go, KwikTrip, KwikStar, Love's, Murphy USA, Pilot, RaceTrac, Safeway, Sam's Club, Sheetz, Speedway.

    I personally also avoid Costco and as the mileage and engine performance I have experienced have been poor despite it being a Top-Tier fuel.

    See which fuels near you are Top-Tier at this link: https://www.toptiergas.com/

    I am currently in Arizona where Chevron is everywhere and I have been a strict Chevron Premium user.
Jerry Cans & Spouts
  • Wavian NATO style jerry cans in 5L and 20L sizes

    I always have three of these with me in my RRC. They are the smaller 5L size. I have one for Sierra coolant, one for Chevron Supreme gasoline and one for Valvoline VR1 20/50 racing oil. Overkill, yes. But what I have not experienced yet since I began carrying all three fluids in the Wavian jerry cans is any type of catastrophe relating to any of the three. Everyone knows that all plastic gas cans leak and vent vapors. Consequently, plastic gas cans are extremely unsafe to carry within the confines of your vehicle. I have had two plastic bottles of coolant leak due to improper placement within the vehicle and some metal object punctured the bottle leaving a green slimy coating of coolant all over the carpets and rubber mats. Extremely time consuming to clean the carpets, the rubber mats and the vehicle itself. Oil has not caused a catastrophe yet, thankfully, and I did not want to wait for it to happen. On longer trips that require carrying extra fuel I will carry up to 4 Wavian 20L jerry cans filled with Chevron Supreme.

    The only issue with NATO style gas cans is that 99% of the spouts for sale in the market today are absolute crap. They are either too short or the glue used to attach the flexible black plastic nozzle gets dissolved by the gas and/or gas additives and then leaks or comes off when transferring fuel. So I do not recommend them. Get either a Super Siphon OR if you can find one, get the spout that came with vintage Bellino BMW and Mercedes 7L and 9L reserve gas cans. They are extremely hard to find and usually only come with a 7L or 9L can. But they are worth their weight in gold. I've never had one leak or fail and they make spill free fuel transferring possible. If you can find one, buy it.

    Be careful of low quality copies of the Wavian jerry cans. Anything that is priced too good to be true, usually is. Signs of a bad copy are tall welded seams combining the two halves. This raised seam extends completely around the jerry can beyond the body of the can and causes the jerry can to sit crooked. When placed in a metal jerry can holder, it will wear either the can or the holder until one of them fails. Also watch for tall or skinny filler necks. The lid/spout should always be below the height of the handles. Most vendors that sell these, have no idea how crappy they are and are cashing in on their uneducated buyers' ignorance. Not sure if you are buying a quality can? Send me a link/photo and I will be happy to let you know.

  • Bellino/Kraftstoff BMW/Mercedes-Benz 7L and 9L Petrol Jerry Cans & Spouts

    I was introduced to this spout by my friend Ed Watson on our Utah Traverse Trip in May of 2016. We had camped for the night near Grand Staircase Escalante and after loading all the Land Rovers up to begin the next leg of the trip, we all opted to refuel from our jerry can supplies. While most of us used less than ideal and very leaky plastic tipped metal spouts or the gravity fed Super Siphons, Ed was refueling faster than any of us and was not spilling a drop using a Bellino spout that was semi-flexible with a slanted and beveled tip. I had to have one. And in fact, in writing this I realized I had once already owned this particular spout on a brand new BMW Bellino 9L jerry can that I had sold a few months prior. I had to buy another tank to get the spout and then sold the tank off by itself recuperating a portion of my investment. Worth all the hassle and every penny. BMW part numbers for just some of the Bellino Jerry cans are 82 11 9 413 174, 71 60 9 057 346, 82 11 9 413 136 and I am told they are no longer available (NLA) new from BMW. There may be other part numbers and probably a bunch of Kraftstoff/Mercedes-Benz part numbers with one being B6 7 58 0038.

    As of September 2023, I am looking forward to what ai13 comes up with for a jerry can spout. They appear to have some high quality fuel hoses for lesser quality plastic jerry cans as well. Time will tell.

    I also recommend the Bellino/Kraftstoff jerry cans themselves. I always thought it would be cool for a 9L jerry can to reside inside the spare wheel. It would certainly be a very cool addition. If decide to relocate my jack from inside the spare tire, which I am seriously considering as of April 2023, I will definitely do this myself if I run across another can for sale at a reasonable price.
Headlights Hood Prop Rod Replacement Rubber Bushing
  • Dorman Help! 49450 Wiper Motor Bushings

    If you are like everyone out there that owns a RRC, you are probably missing the rubber bushing that holds the hood prop rod in place and so it rattles around under the hood. Here is the cheapest way to replace it. Use the Dorman Help! 49450 Wiper Motor Bushings. They come in a pack of three. Toss out, oops, I mean recycle the metal insert in the middle and what you have left, the rubber bushing itself fits the prop rod and the bracket perfectly.
Ignition Coil
  • MSD Blaster 2 Coil

    I have been running a MSD Blaster 2 coil since shortly after I bought my 1989. After I rolled my 1989 I transferred it to 1991 and used it for another 8 years! That is over 100,000 miles. I replaced it with a new one in April of 2019. It is a direct replacement for your original Lucas or Bosch coil that sits above the driver side front wheel well. It is the cheapest electrical improvement you can do to your RRC's ignition system and one of the best upgrades you can do for your RRC. Do not tighten the clamp too much or you will deform the soft brass casing.
Lifting Points
  • How to safely lift your Range Rover Classic on a 2 post lift

    Position the arms as shown on the frame horns for the front radius arms and rear trailing arms. Raise the vehicle slightly off the ground and check stability before continuing to lift your RRC.

        
Mechanics
    First off, the most important advice I can give to you is do not pay someone to learn how to fix your Range Rover Classic. If they are not a Land Rover Specialist and have the credentials and work history to prove it, do not let them work on your Range Rover period. You will lose every time.

  • Rov-N-Techs - Scottsdale, Arizona

    My go to guy is Kevin at Rov-N-Techs. Kevin is the best person to work on your Range Rover in Arizona. He knows them inside and out and apprenticed on them in England. There is no better mechanic in the Phoenix area to work on your Range Rover Classic. Unfortunately as of 2018 he is not accepting new Range Rover Classic clients so it may be very difficult to get him to work on yours, still there is no one better in Arizona.

  • Bill Rhoades - Santa Fe, New Mexico

    If I find myself in New Mexico, my Range Rover is going back to Bill Rhoades. Bill previously owned Bill's European Auto Repair. Bill was the reason I did not balk at the 168,000+ miles on the odometer of my 1991 Range Rover Hunter when I bought it. He had maintained it since new. Bill also did a number of repairs on my 1989 Range Rover back in 2003. If I am ever in New Mexico, you can bet I will stop by and see Bill for anything my RRC needs.

    Not in Arizona or New Mexico? Visit Bushducks or find the Facebook page for your local Land Rover club and ask the members who they recommend near you.

    And remember, never pay someone to learn how to fix your Land Rover!
Oil
  • Valvoline VR1 10/30 1 Quart
  • Valvoline VR1 10/30 1 Quart, Case of 6
  • Valvoline VR1 20/50 1 Quart
  • Valvoline VR1 20/50 1 Quart, Case of 6
  • Valvoline VR1 20/50 5 Quart
  • Valvoline VR1 20/50 5 Quart, Case of 3

    In April of 2019 I switched to Valvoline VR1 20/50 Racing Oil due to the higher zinc levels over the Shell Rotella T4. It is also the recommended oil of RPi Engineering, a very well respected Rover V8 Engine Specialist in the UK.

    Previously I was using Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil. I began using Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil around April 2013 when it was known simply as Shell Rotella T 15W-40. My RRC had about 200,000 miles on it when I switched. I had been using various Castrol grades previously.

    With regular oil changes at approximately 3,000 mile intervals my engine still ran very strong until I swapped it with a very low mileage 4.2L in April of 2021. My original engine had over 286,000 miles on it and while running the stock 3.54 gears and 33" tires, it still had decent acceleration--impressive for a 30 year old Land Rover V8.

    As of Q4 2022, Valvoline has released VR1 Racing Oil in 10W/30, SAE 30, SAE 40, SAE 50, and SAE 60 weights but only in quart size containers; unlike the 5 quart container for 20W/50. If you are driving in a colder climate, you may want to use the thinner 10W/30 during the winter months, otherwise keep that engine block heater plugged in.

    With the 2024 release of Valvoline's new full synthetic Restore & Protect, my previous oil change contained 1 quart of 5W-30 with the remaining oil being VR1 20/50. There was a noticeable difference in engine response with only one quart added in. The oil came out rather dark after 3,000 miles.

    My last oil change of 2024 was just completed November 15th and we used 5 quarts of VR1 20/50 and topped off to full with Restore & Protect 5W/30. I will scope the cylinders when I replace the spark plugs next to see if any of the carbon build up on top of the pistons has been removed.
Radiators
  • Allisport Aluminum Radiators

    If you need a radiator at this point, the best option is the Allisport all aluminum radiator. They are a stunningly beautiful works of automotive art and are extremely efficient at cooling. However, if you live in an extremely hot climate, do not convert to electric fans. Even AlliSport themselves said, if I want the maximum cooling capacity for any Land Rover V8, keep the stock engine fan and do not switch to electric fans. No electric fan combination can move more air than the stock fan.

    I am planning to purchase an Allisport all aluminum radiator for my 1991 RRC in 2024.

    Calsonic was the original supplier to Land Rover for the radiators. And they got it right. A new genuine Calsonic radiator may be impossible to find at this point. As far as I know, they are no longer available. That being said, there are alternatives such as a rebuild or a recore or aftermarket options. Whatever option you choose, make sure the radiator's cooling capacity is correct for your RRC and that it does not have plastic side tanks. A lot of the modern radiators have plastic tanks on the outside but have an aluminum core. I do not recommend these as they are not up to the cooling task of a Range Rover Classic and will likely fail very quickly in extremely hot climates. I can not tell you how many crappy radiators I have seen installed in other Range Rovers. They simply can not do the job of cooling the engine enough to keep it at normal operating temperatures. I lived in Phoenix, Arizona where summer temperatures hit 120 Fahrenheit (°F) or 48 Celsius (°C) or more. I could let my RRC idle all day in the sun with the air conditioner blowing and never rise above normal operating temperature. Alternatively I could climb steep grades and never go above normal operating temperatures. Even towing a heavy trailer would not raise the temperature. Get the right capacity radiator. If it is an all metal (non-aluminum) get at least a three row radiator. If it is an all aluminum radiator get at least a 2 row radiator.

    From recent 2022 research, you will see part numbers ESR74 and ESR74P are radiators that fit all 1987-1995 RRC but they do not fit all three models. There are three different model radiators for 1987-1995 RRC. 1987-1989 has no transmission cooler, 1990-1992 has a transmission cooler, 1993-1995 has a transmission cooler but has different transmission cooler fittings than 1990-1992. Make sure you obtain the correct radiator for your model. If your radiator is original, make sure you save your transmission cooler fittings as you may need to swap them out into your new radiator.
Spark Plugs
  • Champion Copper Genuine Spark Plugs Part Number RN11YCC

    Over the years I have experimented with various spark plugs such as Bosch Iridium, Bosch Platinum +4, NGK, Split Fire and others that promised various benefits and improvements. And what I found that lasts the longest and simply works the best is what my mechanic Kevin told me would work best in my Range Rover V8: the original factory Champion Copper spark plugs. Now, do not run down to your local auto parts store to try and get them. More than likely they will not have them and will unwittingly sell you an "equivalent" or "replacement" part not knowing any better. You want the original ones with the correct part number AND the correct resistance which only the originals have. With the MSD coil and Magnecor wires I gap the spark plugs to 0.038". I typically have at least one extra set in my spare parts inventory. British Parts of Utah typically has them available. Be prepared to spend about $85 for a set of 8.
Spark Plug Wires
  • Magnecor KV85 8.5mm Spark Plug Wires

    I do not remember exactly when I bought my first set of red Magnecor KV85 8.5mm spark plug wires, but I do know that I had them installed in my 1989 before they were swapped into my 1991 where I put another 100,000 miles on them before I replaced them in April of 2019. They simply work great. They suppress a lot of the EMI the Range Rover and its electronics put out. And if you have a CB or HAM radio or aftermarket stereo, the more EMI suppression the better. They do not fit the plastic wiring looms very well, but function rules out form in this case.
Suspension Upgrades for 1987 to 1992 Range Rover Classics and 1993 to 1995 with Coil Spring Conversions
  • RTE Fabrication suspension products

    I highly recommend making some suspension component changes if and when shock replacements need to be made.

    When replacing the front stock shocks plan for at least 3 reciprocating saw blades per front shock to cut the shaft if it becomes necessary.

    Here are my recommended suspension upgrades:
Tailgate Lift Struts
  • Stabilus Part # SG312004

    I had previously replaced my tailgate lift struts on my 1989 at least twice over my 8 year ownership with random brands. They just did not last. So when I replaced them in my 1991 Hunter, I wanted and found a better product. I purchased lifetime warranty Stabilus Lift-O-Mat lift springs. After eight years with temperature swings between -40 and 120 degrees Fahrenheit, they still work like new.
Tires & Suspension Lifts
    Tires and suspension lifts really should be thought about together as they really need to be matched properly.

    If you plan to keep your RRC as close to original as possible, The Blockley Tyre Company in the UK makes a great period correct tire in the original 205/80R16 size. If you are not set on keeping your RRC that close to original, and you have either the stock suspension or less than a 2" lift, I recommend the slightly wider and taller size of 225/75R16 as long as it is an E load range tire. This size will fill the wheel well out a lot nicer than the stock 205/80 and still fit in the stock spare tire location.

    If you decide to lift your RRC and do not exceed a lift of 2" you can accomplish a lift merely with spring spacers if you want to do it inexpensively. But you will not get 2" more drop from your shocks with just spring spacers. The shocks will then likely be the limiting factor for the downward travel of the wheel. If you do not off-road, that is not an issue at all. If you do off-road and flex out that suspension regularly then new shocks and springs would be the better option.

    With a lift of 2" or more you can still run 225/75R16 or I would recommend 235/85R16 size tires. The 235/85 are 0.4"/10mm wider and 2.4"/60mm taller (raises vehicle 1.2"/30mm).

    A great website to compare tire sizes is https://tiresize.com/comparison/.

    Keep in mind, 235 and wider tires will not fit the stock spare tire location without sheet metal modification.

    I do not recommend 265/75R16 size tires. In my opinion it is too wide of a tire for the RRC for both on and off-road with stock alloy wheels.

    If you go beyond lifts of 2 inches then you need to buy a lot more parts like modified radius arms, trailing arms, double cardan drive shafts, longer brake lines, an A-frame spacer, spring retainers and/or spring drop outs and that is just for starters. It really depends what you wish to do with the vehicle, the terrains you wish to conquer and of course, your budget.

    I run 255/85R16 BFGoodrich KM3 tires currently. In my opinion this is the tallest and widest size tire that should be installed on a RRC before you either install portal axles or start cutting fenders and wheel arches to clear 35" or larger tires. I, however, do not recommend cutting the fenders or wheel arches ever on a 4 door RRC. I also do not recommend wheel spacers of any kind ever on any RRC and I am completely against body lifts for many reasons.
Towing
  • Atlantic British Trailer Wiring Kit

    This is the towing kit to get if you only need a 4 pin trailer connection. Easy to install by yourself and no wire cutting or difficult connections to make. Just plug it in to the harness behind the right hand brake lamp housing.

  • Weigh Safe Ball Mounts
  • Weigh Safe 4" drop/5" rise (WS4-2-SET)
  • Weigh Safe 6" drop/7" rise (WS6-2-SET)
  • Weigh Safe 8" drop/9" rise (WS8-2-SET)
  • Weigh Safe 10" drop/11" rise (WS10-2-SET)

    I highly recommend Weigh-Safe aluminum drop hitch ball mounts. I own a 10" drop hitch (WS10-2-SET) with the 2" and 2-5/16" balls. With my lift and larger tires raising the hitch receiver substantially above stock height this is a proper hitch to use in order to tow a trailer correctly. Land Rover however, does not recommend a drop of more than 3" (76mm) or having the center of the ball more than 9" (229mm) from the center of the connecting pin.

    Towing safety is extremely important and I almost had a catastrophic hitch failure due to using an incorrect hitch style. I created an entire RRC Towing Safety web page. If you have in the past, are currently, or are planning on towing with a RRC, I highly recommend reading the page as you may find your RRC is in need of an inspection and possibly repair.

    DO NOT USE the hitch style in the photo on the left. I used this style hitch and ended up with a cracked weld on the factory receiver. I was lucky it was only a crack and nothing worse happened.

        
Water Pumps
  • Airtex Water Pumps

    Airtex also was the original supplier to Land Rover for the water pumps. They last longer than any other brand in a Range Rover Classic. When a fellow RRC owner has a premature pump failure, it is usually some other brand. Watch the weep hole at the bottom of the pump, it will let you know when the pump seals are beginning to wear out and it is time to plan for replacement. Do not forget to order a gasket, too! Available on Amazon.
Wheels
  • Do NOT powder coat or attempt to repair damaged or cracked wheels!

    I was not aware of this until September, 2024 and I am sure most people in America are not aware of it either. I never liked the uniform color of powder coated wheels anyway. Aside from possibly making the tires nearly impossible to be removed from the wheel afterwards, the wheels can also be difficult to balance due to an uneven application of the powder coat material. On top of all that, Germany says no to powder coating wheels. In fact, Germany says no to repairing wheels at all if damaged. Even heating the wheels up past 90° C/194° F for more than 40 minutes is illegal. Read the full document at this link: https://www.rtsauto.com/is-powdercoating-bad-for-rims-yes-and-illegal-in-germany-so-is-using-heat-to-bend-them-back/. Just don't do it! If a wheel gets damaged, replace it; do not attempt to fix it.
Wiper Blades
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